ASUKA
and
FUZIWARA
WALKING AROUND

TOPIC

－Sites－

Asuka Palace Site

As archaeological surveys of the palace site located at the center of ancient Asuka progressed, strips of wood which indicated discrepancies with dates were discovered. This perplexed researchers, but further detailed research showed that multiple newer and older palace sites existed in several layers. These were thought to be the Asuka Okamoto Palace, the Asuka Itabuki Palace, the Nochino Asuka Okamoto Palace, and the Asuka Kiyomihara Palace. This tells us that the palaces which formerly moved with each change of emperor, came to be situated in one place.

Asuka Pond Garden Site

The site of the garden attached to the northwest part of the Asuka Palace. There are two ponds in this spacious garden, one to the north, the other to the south. What resembles a gallery was found in the south pond, as wel l as a central island and a fountain sculpted in stone. This sort of water feature landscaping predating Asuka had not previously been discovered. It is thought to have been influenced by East Asian designs. Ritual related features discovered in the area of the north pond provide evidence of banquets which could well have been aimed at demonstrating political authority. This is the oldest example of a style of garden associated with the subsequent evolution of Japanese garden culture.

Asuka Water Clock Site

Remains were found here, and nowhere else, at a site the name of which remains a mystery. It ’s known as ‘Mizoochi ’. A fragment of a lacquered wooden box and a pedestal were excavated, from which it was clear this was a rokoku or water clock of the type invented in ancient China. Conduits and copper piping which carried water from underground to the clock were also unearthed. As well as this site bringing to light evidence of the very latest science and technologies at the time, the site shows that the concept of ‘time management’, as used in the Chinese court, was indeed introduced.

* Rokoku or water clock
Making use of the characteristic of water flowing in a certain direction, water traveled from higher to lower steps in stepped water tanks with pipes running through them. The device was designed with the volume of water in the lowest level indicating, visually, the time. The mechanism was invented in ancient China.

Sakafuneishi Ritual Site

The people, forced to do the strenuous work, called the very long canal Taburegokoro-no-Mizo (literally, The ‘Ditch of Despair’). This sort of canal was dug to transport the carved stone used to make the structure on which the Sakafuneishi was sited. A tortoise-shaped stone vessel for carrying water was discovered in the center of an open area surrounded by flagstone steps laid in the valley. On top of hillock at the head of the valley sits an irregularly shaped giant oval rock from the Asuka Period with a geometrical square design with rounded edges on it. It is assumed that these were connected in some way to rituals involving water. Empress Saimei, who ordered these installations, was also a priest whose job was to pray for the rains.

Fujiwara Palace Site and Suzaku-oji Avenue Site

A new capital flourished to the north of the Asuka Palace, referred to in the Nihon Shoki as Aramashi-no-miyako. This was the first and also the largest fortified capital city in our country, built on a site chosen as it was protected by the three mountains of Yamato. A very large capital with city blocks spread out in a grid pattern, the Suzaku Oji avenue, running north to south, was the central axis. Being the center of imperial power, the Daigokuden, or Hall of State at the heart of the capital housed the seat of the emperor. This was the center of government during the reigns of three imperial reigns; Empress Jito, Emperor Mommu, and Empress Gemmei, and gained distinction as being the place where the legal codes known as Taiho Ritsuryo were promulgated, missions to Tang China restarted, and the naming of the country ‘Nihon’ took place. This was, in essence, where Japan as a centralized state was first established.

Three Mountains of Yamato

—Facing the East Gate, vivid Kaguyama in Yamato Appears a mount ain draped in lush spring foliage.
Facing the West Gate, fresh Unebiyama, Appears a most beautiful mountain. Standing before the North Gate, immaculate Miminashiyama rises to the heavens.—

Author unknown   Man’ yoshu Part 1 Poem 52 ‘Mii no Uta’

Mt. Kaguyama

A mountain at the tip of the Ryumon Range which includes Tonomine in the east of Asuka, it was the mountain exalted as one to which the gods descended from heaven, the soil of which was considered the soul of the nation, the most sacred and revered of the three mountains of Yamato. It was lauded as the mountain on which trees flourished in spring in the poem Mii no Uta.

Mt. Miminashiyama

A mountain, like Unebiyama, created by volcanic activity. The prefix ‘Mi’, added since early times at the beginning of important name, is here repeated. There are various theories about the origins of the unusual name. Empress Suiko’s palace was located nearby. The Mii no Uta refers to a sacred mountain to the north of the Fujiwara Palace, where it would have protected the rear of the palace.

Mt. Unebiyama

Thought to be the vibrant mountain protecting the west side of the Fujiwara Palace mentioned in the Mii no Uta. It is also described in a poem about the news of treason in the Kojiki, and appears in a poem about a love quarrel in the Man’yoshu. Being the highest of the three mountains, it was deemed to be ‘manly’.

－Buddihist temples－

Asuka-dera Temple Site

The family temple of the pro-Buddhist Soga clan which defeated the Mononobe and Nakatomi, clans that had held onto Shinto court ritual duties since time immemorial. It was the first ornately decorated Buddhist temple in Japan to feature vermilion pillars and tiled roof. This was the only temple to have a Kondo (Main Hall) surrounding, on three sides, temple precincts with a tall pagoda in the middle. The Statue of Shakyamuni Buddha (the Asuka Daibutsu), completed in 609, still sits today, 1,400 later, as it did then, on the site of the Central Main Hall in the middle.

Kawara-dera Temple Site

Empress Saimei temporari ly residing in Asuka Kawara Palace whi lst the palace buildings, which had burned down, were rebuilt. Kawara-dera Temple was built at the site to commemorate Empress Saimei who died in 661. There is notable connection between the temple, and Asuka Palace, the two being situated on opposite banks of the Asuka River.

Hinokuma-dera Temple Site

The family temple, built in the latter half of the 7th century, of Yamatonoaya clan. A platform and foundation stones of the temple’s pagoda have been excavated from within the precincts of the Omiashi Jinja Shrine where a member of the family ̶Achi-no- Omi ̶ is housed. The design of the platform with layered tiles which had been used for the lecture hall originated in Paekche. Many features notably associated with migrant culture, including relics of ondol, have been found in the vicinity.

Tachibana-dera Temple Site

It is known from the Nihon Shoki and Man’yoshu that Tachibana-dera Temple was a nunnery. As well as foundations on a platform for the only remaining Asuka Period five-story pagoda in the precincts, excavations have revealed an underground base stone. Unusually shaped pillar holes which held semi-circular supporting pillars had been dug in three directions around the central pillar in the base stone, a feature catching many people’s attention.

Yamada-dera Temple Site

The family temple built by Soga no Kurayamada-no- Ishikawa-Maro. He followed Prince Naka-no-Oe, at the time of the Isshi Incident. In 649, Ishikawa-Maro, charged with treason, whilst appealing against it, but not having chance to present his plea, committed suicide, resulting in Yamada-dera Temple becoming the scene of a tragedy. As time passed, doubts began to surface, and 14 years after the incident rebuilding of the temple buildings started. On an anniversary day, in 685, of the death of Ishikawa-Maro, a Joroku Buddha was dedicated, and the temple was visited by Emperor Temmu.

Daikandaiji Temple Site

The Taiho Ritsuryo Codes were promulgated in 701 during the reign of Emperor Mommu. Daikandaiji Temple was so called as it was the emperor’s temple, constructed in Fujiwara-kyo, state capital in name and in reality under the Ritsuryo system.
It was the most highly revered state temple in Fujiwara-kyo. The nine story pagoda, a symbolically protecting the state, would have been a mighty impressive landmark. It was burned down immediately after the move of the capital to Heijo-kyo, with only the Kondo (Main Hall) and pagoda platform of the largest temple building in the capital left.
The broad, terraced rice field landscape, free of electric wires, remains as it was since the medieval times.

Motoyakushiji Temple Site

Emperor Temmu began construction of the temple in 680, dedicating it to the recovery from illness of his empress. After Emperor Temmu died, in 698, Empress Jito completed the temple building. The design of the temple, with two pagodas, was the first of its kind in Japan. The two Buddhist pagodas stood in front of the Kondo (Main Hall). At the time, with relations with Tang China broken, we know that emissaries regularly went to and forth between Japan and the capital of Silla on the Korean peninsula, where many twin pagoda temples began to be built, thus introducing the new style to both countries.

－Mounded tombs and Mausoleum－

Takamatsuzuka Mounded Tomb

This mound, with beautiful murals decorating the walls of the burial chamber, was unearthed in 1972. The images are grouped; constellations on the ceiling, the four gods giving protection in the four cardinal directions and, on the east and west walls, male and female attendants.
It is clear from the brush strokes that many artists were involved. Furthermore, we know that extremely fine techniques were used from, for example, the depth of coloration on the lips of the women which have deep crimson overlaying grey coloration.

Shobuike Mounded Tomb

A square mound with 30m sides which, in a corridor-type tomb, housed two fine stone sarcophaguses with lacquered internal sides. Having a moat which was filled in at the time of the Fujiwara Palace, traces have been found of large scale landscape modifications which resulted the existence of the tumulus becoming lost. From evidence including the location of the Soga clan residence being in the Amakashi-no-oka area, those entombed would have included members of the Soga clan, although this remains unclear.

Kengoshizuka Mounded Tomb

An octagonal (in plane view) tomb was discovered on a raised plat form in the western precincts of the Asuka Palace. This was a compound burial mound carved out of one giant rock and having two chambers. The other mound was found in the adjacent area. Referencing the Nihon Shoki has increased the possibility that this was where Empress regnant Saimei and her daughter the Empress consort Hashihito-no-himemiko were buried, and her grand daughter Ota-no-himemiko was buried in the other tomb. The imposing octagonal mound covered with carved stones on top of the hill must have amazed people at the time.

Ishibutai Mounded Tomb

This roughly 5m long corridor-type tomb constructed from massive stones known as Asuka stone, with an overall length of about 19m, is one of the largest in Japan. The burial chamber is 7.7m long, 3.5m wide. It is most likely that, as recorded in the Nihon Shoki, this is the Momohara Tomb of Soga-no-Umako from a very powerful, highly ranked family. Being an outstanding head having spent much energy in concentrating power in the one family, he had a tomb mound equal to those used for the imperial family.

Mausoleum of Emperor Temmu and Empress Jito

This is the joint burial mound of Emperor Temmu and his Empress Jito, victors in the Jinshin War, the largest in ancient times, and the founder of the state under the Ritsuryo Codes. It is an octagonal mound, of a style unique to Japan and designed to demonstrate absolute imperial status. This tumulus was planned by Emperor Temmu and later completed by Empress Jito, and very carefully located on a line extending from the central axis of Japan’s first capital’s Fujiwara Palace.

Nakaoyama Mounded Tomb

From the very small burial facility (corridor-type tomb) which cannot accomodate the sarcophagus, it is assumed that the vessel placed there contained cremated remains. The fact that it was an octagonal mound, and from records Shoku Nihongi that indicate cremations took place, means there is a high possibility that this was the imperial tomb of Emperor Mommu who died in 707.

Kitora Mounded Tomb

In addition to the four guardian deity murals in the four cardinal directions ̶Suzaku (Vermilion Bird), Genbu (Black Tortoise), Seiryu (Blue Dragon), Byakko (White Tiger), and the twelve zodiac animalheaded figures, there is a detailed astronomical map on the ceiling of the stone chamber.
13m in diameter, among the mounds, constructed over more than 400 years, is a very small round tomb which, having the guardian deities in the four cardinal directions, the twelve zodiac animalheaded figures which govern passing time and points of the compass, and the astronomical chart of the stars on the ceiling, makes it easy to imagine, when we see the small, yet technically accomplished, universe created as a space for the deceased to sleep, that whoever was buried here was of very high rank.

－Interesting massive stones and others－

Masuda Iwafune

This giant stone, about 11m wide and 4.7m tall, stands, as though just dropped there, in the middle of a mountain.
Two oblong cavities have been carved into the top surface. There are various explanations, but the most likely is that it is an unfinished burial chamber. The question is asked about why it left unfinished.

Fudotaki stone quarry site

A theory holds that this was the place where the massive rocks used for the Ishibutai Mounded Tomb and others, carved from granite which generally referred to as ‘Asuka stone’, were taken from.
A Yakushido Hall stands at the entrance to the waterfall.

Tomb of Kibihime-no-okimi Saruishi

This is a stone carving that was unearthed from a nearby rice field at the beginning of the 18th century. These four stone statues, or what has become known as the Saruishi or Monkey Stone, stand quietly inside the fence of the grave of Kibihime-no-okimi, the grandmother of Emperor Temmu.

Asuka gigaku children’s workshop

Gigaku are silent masked dance performances which were brought to Asuka from the continent 1,400 years ago. Gigaku was abandoned during the Middle Ages and how it was performed was not passed on. Today, children in Asuka enjoy freely recreating classical culture using their imagination.

Asuka kemari

It is said that kemari was brought to Asuka capital from China during the Asuka Period. It is recorded that kemari played by Prince Naka-no-Oe and Nakatomi-no-Kamatari took place in a clearing in Japanese zelkova trees. Members attending Asuka kemari gatherings enjoyed playing at west of Asuka-dera Temple Site where the zelkova wood is thought to have been.

There are many massive rocks on Kaguyama.
They all have stories associated with them and are said to be vest iges of an ancient Shinto belief in rocks.

Amanoiwato Shrine

Tsukinowa-ishi

Oni no Manaita

According to legend, this was the chopping board that ogres, who would create mists, catch travelers who got lost in the mist, used to cut up their victims preparing to feast on them. Below the hill is, as legend would have it, the large Oni no Secchin rock, where an ogre would relieve himself after his meal. Why such a legend came about is of endless interest, but it is clear that this set of two stones were an element of a burial in a single tumulus.

Short Film "Boy Meets..."

Story

Naoto and Yuni meet by chance in the village of Asuka in Nara Prefecture. As the two of them explore the archeological sites of Asuka and Fujiwara, for which World Heritage registration is sought, they learn that there was exchange between Koreans and Japanese 1,300 years ago. Naoto is attracted to Yuni, but their time together passes in the blink of an eye. Boy meets girl as time goes by.

FROM NARA PREFECTURE

Director of the Nara Prefecture World Heritage Office　 MORII Masayuki

Having been engaged in the preservation of cultural assets for many years, we had an opportunity to travel the world, to sites including the Mogao Caves on the ancient Silk Road trade route, tasked with investigating various cultural properties. Then turning back to look again at Asuka and Fujiwara, we were convinced that they were indeed the end point of the Silk Road. Tang China, a strong state which at the time controlled areas as far away as Uzbekistan, meant it was in a very powerful position. The Tang dynasty flourished magnificently while absorbing western cultures along the Silk Road. Our small archipelago, lying at the time at the very eastern extremity of a continent where major cultural exchanges were taking place, we now know held a position of considerable geopolitical significance. For that reason, at the same time as being caught up, in spite of being separated by a sea, in the turbulent times in history that were happening across East Asia, we also progressed with the development or our own culture in a quiet and steady way. Namely with Asuka and Fujiwara, the sites we are responsible for looking after. Our knowledge does not extend to knowing everything about ancient times. However, one thing we can say is that ancient times and the present are historically connected. Take, as an example, the Ishibutai Tumulus. The giant, smooth stones we see today were once buried under the soil in a burial mound. At some point, for some reason, people was removed the earth revealing the stones, leaving them as they are today. A scene of the giant stones is clearly depicted in the Edo Period Meisho-zue showing the soil had already been removed by then. Changes such as this are, I feel, records of history These historical records build up in many layers buried in the soil. If we can overcome or limited ways of viewing history by compartmentalizing it, then we should begin to appreciate the vestiges, the timeless nature of these sorts of historical record. They will also result in people duly feeling a sense of humility. Living in Nara Prefecture I really do appreciate that ‘Indeed, this was where Japanese civilization was born’. One example of this is to be felt in the ancient Yamato remains, place names which one comes across daily and cannot read, such as with the reading of Asuka - written using the characters meaning ’Flying Bird’. It’s quietly satisfying for me when, every weekend when traveling around, I come across place names l can’t read.
There are many places where people have lived since ancient times, and where religious beliefs have been transmitted. Among them is here, where the state we know as ‘Japan’ was established, and which, all Japanese people can appreciate the particularly enigmatic, many layered depths of history. Without doubt, each of the many visitors who come appreciate Asuka and Fujiwara in their own way, and I would be most happy if you enjoy doing so too.

Nara prefecture world Heritage Office YAMADA Takafumi

Asuka today is a quiet rural village spread across in a narrow basin surrounded by moutains, but it was once a center of government and other facilities, an area densely packed with something that has been artificially constructed.
　The moment you cross Amakashi-no-oka Hill from Asuka, a plain opens out, surrounded by the Three Mountains of Yamato. It was there that court officials 　lived, and the nation’s first, ancient capital, Fujiwara-kyo, was established. I feel that this is the moment when an era took off, like a small chrysalis hatching and a butterfly spreading its beautiful wings. If you visit, I recommend first of all you climb Amakashi-no-oka Hill and appreciate the scenery changing as you ascend. 　Ancient Asuka may fade from people’s memories, but the remains of the capital have always existed, buried below the rice fields Unknown numbers of locals across the 　generations have said ’I don’t know much about it, but this was an important place’. They venerate a shrine on an earth mound where the Fujiwara Palace imperial throne was once placed, praying and looking after it. When the earth mound was excavated in the Showa Period, remains of the Daigokuden Imperial Main Hall came to light, and once again existed in everyone’s minds.
　Moreover, you will also become aware that ancient Asuka was a cosmopolitan center as you encounter the extensive evidence of influences received from the continent. For better or worse, the crushing defeat suffered at the Battle of Hakusonko on the 　Korean peninsula changed people’s spirits. Being an island nation separated by a sea, news coming from the continent was limited but, on the other hand, at the same time information was concentrated. Changes which had been taking place with absorption of culture from the continent, and had spurred the development of our nation, were suddenly, and dramatically, speeded up. It took a mere 100 years from the time cultural exchanges with the Sui and Tang dynasties started to the foundation of our nation state. In my fifth-glade of elementary school was when, taken to Asuka by my father, I first encountered the ancient world. I still remember eating kaki-no-ha-zushi in the open area adjacent to the Ishibutai Mounded Tomb. Following that, I embarked on my archaeology path, a youth dedicated to history, over several decades getting involved in the Asuka Pond Garden Site and Fujiwara Capital Site, as well as in ancient East Asian research in Korea. As a researcher, I am still in my infancy. However, ’I’m not sure there’s anything below these feet, but the actual remains of stages in ancient history lie sleeping in the earth’．I still feel the great excitement I did as a youth.
　When it comes to the World Heritage, I regard myself as ’A representative of what is important and should be preserved in the future for the good of all humanity living on this planet’．Believing that Asuka and Fujiwara, in aiming for World Heritage list inscription, ate one piece of that puzzle.

Photographs ISHIKAWA Naoki Published by the Nara Prefecture Culture, Education and Creative Living Department, World Heritage office. / Published in March 2024
Photographs include images from places other than the component parts of the archaeological sites of Asuka-Fujiwara palaces and associated sites listed on the World Heritage tentative list
＠ Nara Prefecture All rights reserved Unauthorized reproduction or copying of photographs or other materials in this document is forbidden